Trade show Pure London closed its doors on a strong autumn edition this week as enthusiastic visitors sought out the latest collections in womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories and athleisure – a new sector for 2017. The show boasted a global offering and second-to-none seminar content, championing new feature areas, new brands and a new look under the season’s trend-led, immersive theme: Saturated Soul.
Buyers, retailers and online stockists were out in force, including leading independent retailers The Dressing Room, Scarecrow Boutique, Smyth & Barnes, Ej Menswear as well as key multiples and department stores, such as Matches, Topman, ASOS, Fenwicks and John Lewis.
Enriching the visitor experience the catwalk shows presented a line-up of the key fashion trends of the season from a host of international and British brands. Smart design, sustainability and modern, everyday luxury take centre stage for AW17/18, with the transition from autumn through winter for both men and women mapped by four overarching themes: Design Matters, Earthed, Nocturne and INfusion.
Dark-toned designs kicked off the Design Matters scene on the catwalk with an overt use of pulped fabrics and repurposed yarns. Tones in the palette were softened by an almost smudgy grey cast, accented by bright oranges and reds. Brands such as Isabel De Pedro, Kate Laltramoda, Choiboko, Marita, Ahead of Time and Night Addicit showcased clean cut lines, layering and a contemporary feel; while male models sported fashion-forward looks with a utility style approach from Blend, Rains and Relax Baby Be Cool.
Full of light layers for transitional dressing, Kate Laltramoda, Even If and Pour Moi showcased muted colours and feminine, deconstructed shapes for a bold modern look.
The second scene on the catwalk presented the Earthed trend, featuring a powerful, dramatic colour palette inspired by nature. Designers such as Joe Browns, Bright & Beautiful, Latte, Blank and Marita Huurinainen offered fiery tones of saffron and orange with ochre undertones. The collections focused on texture with tactile fabrics such as faux furs, wools, tweed, textiles and mottled surfaces transform and modernise pieces. Blue and violet hues were seen on fur coats from Marita and a silk, paisley printed jumpsuit by Blank.
Night shades and tailoring led the way for the Nocturne trend, with almost-black shades seen from brands such as Join Clothing, Uma, Even If and JNBY. Quilting and padding were key additions, with accents of shine created through silk and leather fabrics.
Stepping into the winter transitional trend of INfusion, voluminous shapes and stylised details met with tasteful tailoring and contrasting proportions across suits, trousers and blouses. Alara Sagesen, Kate By Laltramoda and Waven took to the catwalk presenting diffused light tones such as soft grey and camel against warm retro shades of pinks and reds. These colour matches were also evidenced across jackets by Choiboko and Bellfield.
Adding to the eclectic array, additional catwalk scenes included a presentation by Turkish brands of Istanbul, displaying pieces inspired by the country’s east-meets-west culture. Esmeralda, 2 Ters 1 Duz, Perspective, Modegrey and Zamback flaunted fabrics such as cashmere, leather and silk, adopting a modern and elegant style of clothing.
Emerging Brands also stole the limelight with a vibrant catwalk scene featuring directional pieces by Vone, Vanelse, Jetti, Kraken and Liza Veta, finished with statement accessories by Helen Moore, Nali and Jaxks.
Buyers looking to buy in season could shop a range of collections straight from the Spirit Catwalk, with the brand line-up including Glamorous, Daphnea, TFNC, Wal G, Explosion and Bayside.
Jan Shutt, Owner of Award-winning independent, Sunday Best, said: “The atmosphere and visuals when you entered the exhibition were strikingly more premium. The catwalk seminars were well attended with interesting and informative content. I had a list of collections to view and that helped to speed up my buying schedule. How Rino & Pelle make fantastic coats and jackets at those prices, with the ethics of the Danes, leaves me in wonder.”
In other areas of the show, the growing menswear sector, Pure Man, closed on a successful fourth edition, welcoming collections for short and forward order from over 150 brands. The sector has expanded threefold since its inception last year, with exhibitors praising its fresh, evolved edit.
Athleisure also stepped up to the mark as it made its debut as a standalone sector at the show. Buyers in search of office-to-gym wear had the opportunity to source fashion-led sportswear alongside a whole host of accessories from PureLime, Bjorn Borg, Elle Sport, Miss Runner and many other brands.
“We have had a really good show so far. We have taken a lot of orders which is great. We’ve been exhibiting for about 3 years now and it’s already feeling busier than last season.” commented Emily Roberts, Junior Designer at Neon Rose.
Shoe Embassy’s Wholesale Manager at commented “We’re having a great show and taking lots of orders. It’s our first time at Pure London and based on the success of today we’ll be back again.”
Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director for Pure London at Ascential, commented:
“We understand that buyers are continually in search of fresh and exciting collections that will stand out on the high street and really help to elevate their offering. That’s why each season, we secure a new and diverse line-up of brands to ensure that Pure London offers an exclusive showcase that cannot be found elsewhere.
This season we had a fantastic visitor response to our new, emerging and premium sectors, as well as Athleisure and Pure Man, which we see as real driving forces for seasons’ ahead. Our content programme has also excelled this February, and we were thrilled to welcome our fantastic keynote speaker, Vogue’s Alexandra Shulman, to the show. Watch this space as we head into our Spring Summer 18 edition.”
The next edition of Pure London will take place from 23-25 July 2017. For more information and to view highlights from the February event, visit: www.purelondon.com.
